• Warrior chimney rooftop is the big draw for kids, a sculpture garden of helmeted stone towers with open city views
• Whale Attic arches form a brick-rib tunnel kids can walk the length of, housing the Gaudí exhibition
• Lift to the top means no long stair climb, and the indoor route is air-conditioned in summer

Gaudí's last apartment building has a self-supporting stone facade with no straight walls and twisting wrought-iron balconies. The visit climbs through two plant-filled inner courtyards to the Whale Attic, a hall of parabolic brick arches holding an exhibition on Gaudí's work, then out onto the rooftop terrace where sculpted chimneys and stair towers look like stone warriors. A restored 1900s flat shows how residents actually lived.